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Porsche 911/912/930
1965-1989
Porsche 964
1989-1994
Porsche 993
1995-1998
Porsche 996/997
1999-2012
Porsche 991
2012-2019
Porsche 992
2020+
Boxster/Cayman
1997+
Porsche 914
1970-1976
944/968/924
1976-1995
Porsche 356
1948-1965
We offer replacement parts direct from Porsche as well as our own Elephant Racing brand of suspension components that will eliminate squeeks, groans, increased fuel consumption, and road-wandering qualities of worn bits.
With new bushings, ball joints, tie rod ends, shocks & mounts, and properly adjusted suspension components your car will drive straight down the road quietly with less driver fatique and better fuel economy.
If you have a full vehicle restoration on your agenda we can take your control arms, trailing arms, spring plates, etc… and completely refurbish them before shipping back to you. Depending on the component and year of your car we will disassemble, sandblast, powdercoat/zinc plate/paint, and reassemble with all new bearings and components. You will recieve your original components rebuilt and ready to install. You can see all our services here or call us at 408-297-2789.
And then there are classic Porsches…
And then there are classic Porsches…
For all their year-round usability, classic Porsches almost universally rise above their call of duty. They’ve got good bones, so to speak, and their ability to retain, and in many cases, increase in value often skew the decision towards keeping them in active service. After all, few cars offer the tactile feedback and visceral rush of driving an air cooled classic.
When deciding whether to stay the course with an older classic, one of the first decision points is around where to spend the money. There are certainly ways to modernize old cars by integrating in desirable features from late models like Bluetooth connectivity, back up cameras, navigation and similar. However, perhaps the most obvious updates in terms of increasing sheer driving pleasure, which really is the quality that most clearly differentiates Porsches from lesser cars, are the least visible.
Suspension bushings, spring and strut assemblies, and control arms all have finite time spans. A As bushings perish, for example, the direct connection with the road is compromised. The seemingly telepathic steering response over time becomes muted and ambiguous. Alignment settings no longer hold true and road imperfections compromise not just ride quality, but driver confidence.
It doesn’t have to be this way. Elephant Racing offers a comprehensive catalog of restoration parts to keep your Porsche operating as it should for many years and miles to come. Elephant parts ship fast and come with installation instructions. We can also offer referrals to qualified installers in your area. So when it comes to making the decision to move on or keep motoring, know that Elephant Racing is just as trusted a resource in keeping your classic on the road as we are in upgrading late model cars for even higher performance.
Bent struts are common problem. A hard impact bends the spindle upwards, causing a loss of camber. It is actually the strut body that is typically bent, not the spindle. Strut bodies can be reinforced by welding gussets between the spindle and strut body. This reduces the leverage the spindle has over the body and greatly reduces it’s propensity to bend.
A second steering knuckle can be fitted to the strut. This puts the tie rod end in a double shear mount that is much stronger than stock. The double shear not only strengthens the steering knuckle, it also reduces twisting and flex of the steering knuckle by eliminating the bending moment of the stock single shear configuration.
Chassis failure around the front swaybar mounts is a common problem.
The stock type through-body swaybar mounts attach to a single layer of sheet metal. It’s prone to flexing, cracking and failure. Reinforce proactively to prevent failure using our doubler plate. This reinforces the area, distributing the load to prevent cracking.
Factory rear swaybar mounts are simply not up to the task. Originally designed for the lightweight 16mm diameter swaybars equipped on the cars in 1965, these flimsy sheet metal bits fail regularly even in street use. When used with stiffer swaybars or the added load of off-road driving, it’s just a matter of time to failure.
These can be replaced with our sturdy solid swaybar mounts. These are much stronger than factory parts and are pretty much bullet proof.
Another common failure point is the area around the rear spring plate mounts. These commonly develop fatigue cracks around the welds that secure the mounting bosses to the chassis. Pre-galvanized cars are further prone to rust in this area.
Our doubler plate reinforces this entire area, distributing the load and preventing failure.
The 911 chassis was originally designed to use torsion bar springs. The rear shock tops and the crossmember that holds them where designed to carry the damper loads alone, and not the full weight of the car. Cars converted to a coilover suspension further load this area with the full vehicle weight and should be reinforced. Safari cars that retain torsion bars but will be driven hard are also advise to reinforce this area. Our shock tower reinforcement kit makes this easy.
Suspension droop travel is lost when raising the car using factory adjusters. It is important to maintain droop travel. For the suspension to work properly it must not only compress to absorb bumps, it must also droop to maintain tire contact over dips and on the unloaded side of the car when rolling in turns. Further if the dampers (shocks) are topping out harshly they can be damaged. Topping out happens with the shock reaches its mechanical limit of extension.
This is addressed on the front suspension by using our safari struts. These struts have the spindles relocated to the bottom of the strut tube. This has the effect of raising the car without extending the damper. Further the dampers we equip have additional range of travel. This combination provides the added suspension travel and prevents topping out the dampers.
On the rear we address this problem by extending the damper range of travel, plus extending its static length.
The second problem caused by simply raising the suspension is undesirable geometry changes. This happens because the suspension members become angled such that they are outside of the normal operating range. Operating outside the intended operating range causes static and dynamic toe and camber curves that are poor. At the limit it causes unsafe operation and potential binding and breakage as ball joints and tie rods are forced beyond their design limits for angular deflection.
Safari struts with their lowered spindle height corrects the angle of the lower control arms, restoring them back to reasonable position on the camber curve. Static camber is further corrected using our De Cambered Ball Joints.
Safari struts also correct toe curve by moving the tie rod end back to a correct relationship relative to the lower control arm. This keeps the tie rod in the center of it’s angular range of travel at the elevated safari height, avoiding binding and breakage.
BFG A/T 215/65-16 – These have a diameter of 27 inches, putting the hubs about 1 inch higher than stock. These are the largest size tires that can reasonably be fit to the 911 chassis without major modification. The rear bolts right on, the front require trimming of the lower valence area.
These tires visually provide the big-tire, off road look. They provide the highest height and ground clearance. On the downside the large diameter raises effective gearing, impacting acceleration and torque to the ground. Added rotational inertial and diameter challenge the stock brakes and require a heavier pedal effort.
Rally Tires
These run on 15″ wheels and have a diameter of 26″, putting the hubs about 1/2″ higher than stock.
Still a large tire visually just dialed back a bit from the BFGs. The smaller diameter provides superior acceleration, braking and handling – relative to the taller tire.
Safari cars can continue to use torsion bars and this is most true to the design of the road cars. One issue with torsion bars in a safari application is the increase in suspension travel. Torsion bars twist in operation, that is how provide their spring force. The amount of twist translates to suspension travel, so a safari car with increased travel with twist the torsion bar more than stock.
If the torsion bar is twisted too far, beyond its yield point, it will be permanently deformed. That’s another way of saying the car will start sagging down. Continue twisting and the bar will break. The maximum angular twist that can be tolerated without deforming is a function of the torsion bar diameter. Thinner bars can twist more than stiff bars.
Thin bars also make for a softer suspension. If you want to build a torsion bar safari car, the safe torsion bar size depends on how much you raise the suspension. But in general we recommend limiting front diameter to 21mm and rear diameter to 28mm.
Another approach is to remove the torsion bars completely and . Coilover setups can provide greater suspension travel than torsion bars. Quality coilover springs do not sag and can’t reach the yield point. This is because the coil travel is self-limiting. The coil will compress fully and coil bind before reaching the yield point.
Properly selected coilover spring lengths will not even coil bind because the suspension will be compressing the bump stops before this happens. Our coilover setups are designed to do this properly.
When choosing to run a coilover setup, it is important to reinforce the rear shock towers. This strengthens them to deal with the increased loads presented by the coil springs.
Coilover or torsion bar, either can provide a good safari suspension. In both cases quality bump stops of the right length and stiffness need to be equipped to the front and rear dampers. Bump stops provide a transition as the suspension approaches the end of its travel, increasing the effective spring rate of that corner to provide a smooth landing.
In the absence of bump stops, the suspension will bottom out metal-on-metal. Something is going to break sooner rather than later.
Firstly: the need to operate in dirt. Spherical bearings and the like are great for road cars but are not the choice for dirt. Rubber bushings are the best choice, they are extremely tolerant of dirty environments.
Secondly: the bushings need to survive impact loads and isolate the chassis from those impacts. Again rubber is the clear winner.
You may be thinking that rubber gives up precision and control of alignment settings, and reduces driver control. While this is true it is not significant to safari cars, especially when driven in the dirt. The loss of driver precision due to using rubber bushings is noise-level when running tall sidewall tires in dirt. Further, the cornering loads generated are much less then we see on street and track cars – the bushings just don’t deflect as much.
All in rubber is the best choice for most safari builds.
Stating the obvious, tires need to be in contact with the ground to stop, steer, or drive. A stiff suspension over uneven terrain can quickly become a tricycle. Consider that cars without limited slip differentials can actually get stuck if one of the rear wheels is off the ground, or barely touching. This is because open differentials direct the torque to the tire with the least traction.
Cars that run only on the street will benefit from a stiffer suspension. Indeed the elevated center of mass in a safari car causes more profound weight transfer than a regular road height car. This is especially noticeable on dive and squat. 911s are known for being steered with the throttle as well as the wheel, this goes in spades on safari cars.
Adjustable swaybars can be great way to tune the suspension for the day’s planned outing, street or dirt. Soften the swaybars for off road, stiffen them for street use and enhanced control. They also allow tuning to driver preference and terrain.
For this reason, we recommend adjustable swaybars for all safari builds.
Unlike body-on-frame trucks, equipping a uni-body car like the 911 to handle the rigors of trail and off-road driving presents a variety of special considerations. These include not only providing adequate suspension travel and clearance, but also appropriate bracing, support, and geometry correction. We have developed suspension and chassis systems to do exactly that – helping to preserve the integrity of your 911 even when traversing the most demanding of surfaces at speed. Whether you’re opting for one of our integrated packages or ordering individual components, Elephant Racing is here to provide our world-class engineering to help you explore wherever the road (or rutted path) takes you.
Just as lowering a car on coil overs changes its handling and braking behavior, raising its center of gravity presents a corollary set of challenges. In order to optimize your 911’s performance both on and off road, even with a substantial increase in ride height, our engineering team calculated the precise load and response characteristics needed to replicate stock response even with substantial variation from stock parameters. For example… [Need an engineering use case here]
Even if you’ve chosen one of our adjustable-height coilover safari packages, it is very easy to revert back to a factory torsion bar setup at any time and most of your safari components (bushings, drop links, camber plates, etc…) will carry over to enhance a factory ride-height suspension.
Show Me The Packages